Post by Dusty's Corner on Nov 30, 2012 8:48:15 GMT -5
Cheers mate! I've got people wanting loads of stuff, but until I can get it casted properly I'm stumped. My setup isn't really good enough. It's stopped me from opening shop for some years now. There's so many ideas for this thing and many follow-on products could be developed, like a bank so you could have a series of tubes lined up, control consoles, decking and other 'room' features. The inside diameter of the glass tube is 9mm. There' should be enough space for a LED. The battery would probably have to go inside the control console. I've allowed channelling in the design so that wires etc can run through.
Post by Dusty's Corner on Dec 10, 2012 9:37:14 GMT -5
I'll get in touch with Ed and see what he says. Thanks for suggesting the idea, makes me feel better knowing that people are helping me to go further. It also improves my motivation and sanity.
Cryostasis update: I’ve been knuckling down and pushing for progress (and it makes for better pics). I’ve made some silly mistakes, using up pieces unnecessarily. Some fuk-ups have happened, but it’s being manage to be kept under control. For instance if a cut is too deep, it is filled with Milliput and then re-passed through the machine (it does mean everything is on hold until the correction is made – no adjusting machines).
In the Pics... Lots of free styling and hacking away. Parts have become much more delicate than I anticipated, but part of it is about pushing the limits.
Looking at the beast, I realised I should of made the back piece a little longer. And also that maybe there should be a more physical way for the lower block to join to the upper block, they are after all part of the same machine. It would make sense for it to be able to connect/communicate with the other half and not through just 4 support rods. I’m working on some ideas. The lower block insert protrude out quite a bit, I’ll probably slice them down a bit. But hopefully you get a sense of just how much more chucky this is compared to the previous design (pink resin piece to the side). Lower block sides have finally had stuff done to the back. I've also incorporated some channelling to allow for any wiring or pipes.
Some ideas for conversions. Pairs are cool to have. Can't wait to apply these to terrain, vehicles, machines etc.
Post by Dusty's Corner on Dec 21, 2012 19:18:42 GMT -5
I’ve been focusing mainly on the lower block trying to complete its parts. The upper block has a few things holding up the progress. The cradle is yet to be assembled and the hatch is gonna be a headache. I’ll cross that bridge when we get there but first I want to get the foundations secure before building up.
These either side are the inserts for the lower block which have been taken down a bit and at the same time given tabs to fit the piece in between. It’s being a little extra and risky, but it makes it better.That middle piece goes under the lower block as another layer, it'll be stuck so that it's one piece and stops the tube from falling through.
These are new bits to fit inside the inserts. It's got a bit of channelling for thin cables/pipes. I didn't particularly want to make it even wider but I liked the look. Perhaps at some point I'll do a more flush design and also some trunking to connect blocks in series.
This is where I nearly had a meltdown. I nearly sliced my finger so I let go of the side insert pieces while it was going through the saw. Scared the heck outta me. The pieces got a bit damaged. I've spent a few days just trying to correct it. Maybe now would be a good time to mention a bit about Safety; Always be in easy reach and ready to switch off tools in an instant.
On the whole though, it's really taking form and some pieces are pretty much done being shaped. Looking forward to getting onto some other projects once this is done. I can then relax a bit as this thing as been stressing me out a bit way too much. Oki I had to have some fun before I go totally coo coo, but it did make me realize something;
If all else fails, it's good to know there's another use for it!
Post by Dusty's Corner on Feb 26, 2013 18:11:42 GMT -5
...kinda lost track where we left off...
Ok, Started to work on the brackets a bit. I've marked out in pen what I'm planning to do.
Trying this piece out to replace the cradle. It's the only one I got so I've only got one shot at this unless I resetup the drill and go through the hassle of drilling again. It's had the corners drilled for the support rods. If successful, it will make the smaller side bits no longer needed (it won't really be a cradle anymore either). In order to rise the upper block as intended by the cradle, I could put a strip along the bottom edge of the upper block instead. There are a few different ways I could go about doing some things. I need to decide on a way and go with it. Luckily that cradle piece replacement came out ok, phew.
The brackets got out of hand too quickly trying to plough through them. There's a thin plate that really I should have worked on first before doing the brackets (which fit over it). I had in mind to split the brackets once they were ready. This would allow them to be mounted one side at a time thus keeping the drill bit and pin straight. The issue of getting the hatch to line up perfectly is still problematic. It’s used up yet more stock but at least it’s given me some ideas on how to design/rearrange bits.
I eventually thought of a possible solution which would make a few things a lot easier. I'm thinking about playing an illusion! Instead of a hatch that flips open, there will be just a hole and the top of the tube will protrude appearing with hatch-like features, such as a handle. It would mean the brackets no longer need to support a hatch and removes the issue of the hatch having to line up perfectly.
The brass pipe is a tight fit for the glass tube. The end of the tube also bows out ever so slightly causing yet more problems. The end of the glass tube needs to be sanded down a bit being careful not to scuff up the glass too much or scratch it.
Mould and cast is being tested as the stock has been sitting for quite some time. Despite being in a crappy loft, the gloop looks good.
I started to mould the lower block. I weren’t sure if it would work, but to my surprise, pretty good success. There are a few things I need to now work out. A couple of the tight slots caught airbubbles in them which isn’t so good. If I had a vacuum chamber, it might help otherwise I’m thinking of cutting the slots wider (or making new pieces yet again).I was surprised the brass pipe managed to cast. It’s very thin. I couldn’t find the same tube I used in the very original model which was a little thicker.
I’ve glued some the pieces together to make assembly quick and easy. It means less components but it also means less hassle cleaning mould lines and gluing all the bits together afterwards. I'll have to remould the new sections when ready.
Really digging the Cryostasis Project. Especially the keyrings you made based on that project.
I was wondering, where did you get the see-through tubes? I'm looking for similar material (preferably glass though) for a project a friend of mine is working on. Problem is that we have no clue where to find the materials.
Bits Blitz - the place to be for all your bits needs!
Post by Dusty's Corner on Mar 19, 2013 14:08:11 GMT -5
Cheers Malika, You can get glass tubes from Ebay!! But some things to note when buying glass tubes: -They don't always have consistant dimensions. Sometimes they can vary ever so slightly. But generally if it says 10mm diameter, they'll be 10mm. It's only when you use calipers you might find them being slightly different. -The rim of the tubes might have be cut a bit rough. You could also get clear acrylic tubes, but they can get costly after a while. I got a few different sizes and I generally prefer the glass type. Acrylic can scratch easily, fog up and can be harder to keep clean.
Update time Moulds, urg....not sure what to say about them but I'm pretty chuffed they came out working as well as they are. LED, m'yahh...It's alive!
Here's the lower block layout. Do you think there are too many pieces to put together? I like having components but I understand fewer pieces are easier to handle. I just wonder how easily this will be for people to put together.
Quite a bit of drilling to get the LED in and to do the smaller spot light holes. I'll have to remachine a new piece so that it can plug into the lower block. You'll see in the wiring pic how it was fudged in place.
The bank of tubes.
How to wire it up. Here it comes out the back, but it could go out the sides if you wanted (such as with the bank of tubes). Ideally I should have left a thin dividing wall to prevent the wires shorting out with each other. But some heat shrinkings can help (longer pieces than what I put on).
Now at this stage I can begin to see how the design fits together properly. Putting these pieces together was much easier and quicker than the previous Cryostasis designs. However it's back to the drawing board to incorporate the new tweaks and to work out the upper block some more. Another battle on the horizon rallies.
Post by Dusty's Corner on Aug 11, 2013 7:30:15 GMT -5
It's that time again, I have an update - woohoo! Mainly focusing on the upper block, lots of headaches and wondering what to do...
I decided to incorporate the cradle into the upper block. The sides also had to be slotted out so that they can fit onto the cradle.
The brass pipe has been cut and glued in place.
Snugly fits, no glue or blu-tac to hold any of it on (Dry-fitting).
The bracket is made from 2 pieces and the next few pics show how you can use magnets to help align and stick things in place.
Sorting out the alignment issue with the hatch has troubled me for a long time. Then one day, it hit me, drill a big hole!
The idea here is to drill a large hole so that a needle can be suspended freely within it. The next step is to prop up the needle so that it's level and centred where you want. This is where you get jiggy jiggy with spacers and magnets etc. Then when you're happy, shove some Milliput to fill the gap up. Once cured set, give the needle a twist to break the grip on it and pull it out. Finally sand the Milliput flat. The hole should now in theory be straight through the middle. Yee-ha!
The bracket also gets large holes drilled through. It's then taped in place onto the upperblock, it kinda hooks over it. The hatch is then dropped in and the needle inserted. The hatch is then aligned over the main hole in the upperblock, then that too is taped down. Then Milliput is shoved in the gap again around the needle.
Once cured set, the tape that's holding the hatch is removed and a check can be made. As the hatch opens, you can check the alignment by the way it feels. You can usually tell is there's a slight twist or if something is not quite right.
Once checks are done and it's looking like it just might work, the hatch is removed and the needle replaced so that the inside of the bracket can be filled. Once cured, it's sanded flat and everything should now be aligned. So that's a little tip/tutorial on hinging things!
I was never keen on making a handle for the hatch. I thought I could short cut it with a staple - but that's just lame and including a staple in the kit is stupid. So I managed to machine this tiny piece. The hand hole had to be filled to make moulding easier, however it can be cut away once it's casted.
The lower block I stuck the top piece to the lower block to reduce components but I wish I kept them as separate pieces now. So I added some fins in case airbubbles get caught in the slots. The block has also had a larger hole drilled in the bottom for the new core to plug into (forgot to pic that).
I had to machine a new version of this bit just so that things continue to tally up. It was quite annoying to do and took a few attempts. I had to create some tools. I've also had to fix (reposition) one of the pilot hole for the support rods.
Casts here we go. Not the best moulds, airbubbles still cause jip. But I'm still pretty chuffed with it. It goes together better than I could have imagined and its good to see finally the overall look. It doesn't require 'fudging' into place which is probably the best asset. Mould lines are kept minimal. The hatch and bracket work great and digging away at the handle is easy.
It's been added to the current mould set for the lower base.
Space marine for an idea on scale. Inside the tube is a Eldar pilot torso which have been trimmed a little to fit.
Here's a comparison between the different designs for the upper section.
Bugs and problems and now be looked at and then hopefully a final set of moulds made. I decided to up the detailing some more seeing how another mould set will be made. Sometimes I guess I just don't know when to stop.